Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Tue May 19, 2015 6:03 am

Oh, the price. Someone mentioned 212... thats the price with tax in the store after they applied a discount. I'm assuming the discount was due to WM trying to get rid of them. Really sad to because if the reviews here are any indicator, and if the bike is built w the quality it looks to have been built with, its going to be an amazing bike.

Anyone ever think of building your own? Maybe even for resale? After I get a few things around the house finished off and the garage cleaned up, I'm seriously think of attempting it. I may start w modding the Blackcomb to a 3 tube triangle first.
Last edited by someonec on Thu May 21, 2015 5:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Tue May 19, 2015 8:28 am

Pacific Cycles... did you guy your bikes directly from them? Is that why you're able to get warranty parts? Or is it because they're the manufacturer?

Do you have the website? I'd like to keep that on hand, just in case.

***EDIT*** question answered:

by Techman XR-PRO » Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:51 pm
The pacific cycle warranty hotline is 1 (800) 626-2811. Make sure you have your number from the bottom of the bike and the sticker that came on the bike when you call.I'm sure you could replace the stock pivot with bearings. I still have the stock pivot in and it had held up great. I make sure I keep it greased and I've got probably a little over 100 miles of hard riding and no issues yet. If ou do replace it with bearings please post what you use so that others who want to o the same can benifit also!
Last edited by someonec on Fri May 22, 2015 10:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Tue May 19, 2015 9:02 am

Figured out how to upload the pics.

Maybe these will give a little more info on the components and build quality.

Sorry they are dusty. Just got it home. It had been collecting dust in the WM stock room.
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Tue May 19, 2015 9:07 am

More Pics:
Attachments
right shifter break.jpg
right shifter break.jpg (316.42 KiB) Viewed 377 times
rear break.jpg
rear break.jpg (333.11 KiB) Viewed 377 times
rear D and gears.jpg
rear D and gears.jpg (369.89 KiB) Viewed 377 times
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Wed May 20, 2015 4:28 am

I just noticed last night when I sized up where to start w the rebuild, that the front forks are put on backwards.

To the guy who said his front tire hit his toes / pedals... this might be why.

WM here is not known for their knowledge and skill. Another example, I called the morning of, and 30 minutes before I went to pickup the bike, but when I got there 3 people told me it wasn't in stock. Not after I insisted and told them I had confirmed twice over the phone were they able to find it. They did spend a good bit of time looking for it too and I was super appreciative of their kindness, which walmart is not known for.

-James
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Wed May 20, 2015 4:36 am

How much do we trust the manufacturer's build? Are you guys rebuilding the wheel and BB bearings? How about rebuilding the front fork?

***EDIT*** I rebuilt them anyways to be safe.
Last edited by someonec on Fri May 22, 2015 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby someonec » Wed May 20, 2015 4:53 am

I did some weighing last night on the bathroom scale (weigh me and then weigh me with, method) and here are the numbers I got without any modification:

Complete front wheel: 6.2 lbs
Complete rear wheel: 6.8 lbs
Everything else: 24.4 lbs
--------------------------------------------
for a grant total of: 37.4 lbs

Hope this info is helpful. I will try to weigh more individual components as I rebuild.

Crank and pedels: 3.2 lbs

I didn't have time to weigh the bars or fork. Had the urge to ride!!!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update
I finished rebuilding the bike and road it yesterday. Here's a little bit about it:
You HAVE got to rebuild the bike BEFORE you ride. It is a must if you don't want issues like cracked and frozen bottom brackets, torn up suspension bearings/spacers, and parts falling off. This is not optional. And this goes for all bikes, but esp big box store bikes...

Aside from common since like pumping up the tires and checking that all bolts are tight... This includes:
1) All washers/ spacers in the rear suspension triangle, including the main pivot which was dry from the factory. My rear suspension did not move at all. Everything was dry and tightened stiff.

2) The bottom bracket (BB). Take it apart and grease everything. It is lightly grease from the factory and is either over tightened or very loose. This is why several people who haven't done this have had cracked or seized BB's. Be sure to use a crank puller. I used one like the " Park Took Compact Crank Puller". They all seem to be the same size.

3) The headset. Though mind was put together and greased better than the rest of the bike, it was still lacking in grease and several of the bolts were not tight.

4) Wheel bearings. These may be the toughest bit. (Note: Only loosen one side, Make sure the bolt and locking bolt on the other side are tight so they don't move.)You'll need to remove the rubber dust cover, and use a cone wrench (it has two sized machined into it, 15mm and 16mm. Local shop only had a 16mm cone wrench, but I'd recommend the 15mm for better leverage.) Once the nuts are off you'll have a rubberized washer that keeps the dust out and the bearings in. Don't remove it, you will bend it as I did.(Luckily I was able to straighten it out enough and put it back in.) You can grease it from there. The toughest part is getting the tension right when you get it back together. You will need help holding one of the wrenches.

5)Get the breaks working. Its simple process thats cumbersome to do. Watch some youtube vids too.
A)Loosely tighten all the cable adjusters (one on the caliper and one on your break leaver) all the way in (new cables will stretch and you will need to adjust them out) and loosen your break cable from the caliper.
B)Loosen the inner pad break pad by turning it counter clockwise. It should be close to even with the caliper, if not a little further out.
C)Remove any slack in the cable by pulling the cable taunt and tightening it back into the caliper.
D)Loosen the mounting brackets enough to allow the break caliper to wiggle back and forth. (this is to get the break caliper centered on the break disk with plenty of adjustment)
E)Tighten the inner pad by turning it clockwise until it pushes the break disk a little past middle of the caliper (this again is to get the break caliper centered on the break disk with plenty of adjustment)
F)Clamp the break leaver shut by wrapping a sock or piece of yarn around it tightly. If this doesn't clamp the pads down tightly on the break disk, you need to go back get more slack out of the cable.
G)Tighten the mounting brackets. You can now unwrap your break leaver.
H)Loosen the inner pad until you can spin the wheel and hear no rubbing. The break disk should now be closed to centered in the caliper.
I)Loosen your break cable from the caliper. Use one hand to actuate the break, clamping the pads to the disk. Loosen your grip on the actuator until you hear little or no move rubbing. Use your other hand to tighten the break cable on the caliper. When you let go, the actuator should extend the cable out far enough so that there is no more rubbing.

Note that this is difficult to do your first time. Be patient, do it a couple times for practice. Do not get frustrated

6)Adjust the deraileurs. There is no way I can explain this. Watch tons of youtube vids before trying this. It takes practice. Again, dont get frustrated. Do it a couple times. A couple things to note, make sure your front deraileur (FD) is mounted straight and that it is not mounted rediculously high or low.
Last edited by someonec on Fri May 22, 2015 7:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby theguy427 » Thu May 21, 2015 1:08 pm

Walmart has gotten wise... at least in my area. The store price is now $349.
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First Riding impressions:

Postby someonec » Fri May 22, 2015 8:54 am

I went for my first ride in Harbison State forest for a 4 or so mile loop(AFTER I REBUILD, GREASED, TIGHTENED, AND ADJUSTED EVERYTHING)... sorry thats really important. See my previous post.

A little into my background.... I rode walmart bikes a lot in the neighborhood in elem school, being dumb and finding what ever we could to jump. As a young teen, I raced motor cycles in the woods in the Jr classes in SETRA. It was pretty big back then before the economy started going down and I was pretty good for a 12 year old. As a mid teen, I dabbled in BMX racing, some flat land, and did a lot street riding. After college I fixed up two old rusting street bicycles. Me and my roomie spent a lot of time riding to stay in shape. Later on I bought a rusted and neglected Mongoose Blackcomb for cheap from walmart which was sitting outside w the rest of the end of summer bicycles. I fixed a couple things on it and I rode it alot in the city jumping curbs and steps and some in local state park's walking trails. This past 6 months I've been riding a good bit in Harbison State forest on the Blackcomb. I have ridden on a high dollar LBS bike twice recently on some good hard trails . It was very nice and very plush... Very smooth.

I'd say I'm an aggressive rider and like pushing my limits and those of my bike. With the stock Blackcomb, I was pushing its limits. It sure does keep you on your toes bouncing everywhere and readjusting the smashed deraileur / bent rear triangle (one of those, look what I can do... moments) after every ride. It was surly the best bike I had ever owned. It was in need of some serious upgrades, but I had a hard time spending money one it, being a heavy odd shaped frame, having poor quality rear linkage, not having a replaceable RD hanger, and the rear triangle being bent. It would be a great bike if I spent more time working on the suspension linkage and upgraded a few parts. I watched Mongoose Jake's vid of his Blackcomb after the fact and see how capable the bike could be. Very good info there from Jake I wish I had know when I bought the bike. But the bike did spark my interest in XC and bombing hills as quick as possible, so I'd have to credit it with getting me into MTB.

First Impression
The XR PRO did great. I road gently with my wife on a 4 or so mile loop on Firebreak trail, with a quick stent on the Crooked Creek trail. I was not confident in the bike, and was worried of something breaking, or coming loose, despite the hours I spent rebuilding it. It was a 200 walmart bike after all... How much can you expect? I did gain a little confidence half way down the trail, but still scared of the bike breaking.

The bike seemed solid compared to the Blackcomb. It made much less noise, less chain clanking, no squeaks, no grinds, and surprisingly good shifting. (surprising because I turned it real quick anxious to ride and because I'm normally very picky. The frame and components seem to be great quality. I may not do any upgrades for some time. It did feel a lot closer in quality to the LBS bike I road than to my Blackcomb.

The riding height took some getting used to. I will be doing some adjustments. I'm a short guy, 5'7" and inseam of 30, 32 on a good day, and a little heavy at the moment at 181 lbs somewhere around 20% body fat. I do weightlifting once or twice a week, so that may change my weighting on the bike compared to a couch potato. But the seat is way too low!!!... I ended up jacking it way up past the "do not cross this mark" mark. I may have had 2 inches of post in the frame. I really need a seat post, but may wait until this one collapses, or someone can give me another good reason like frame damage.

The handle bars are high for my liking. I know a lot of guys here who liked them. I like mine almost even with my seat when my seat is adjusted correctly (full length of my leg with my heal on the pedal... youtube it) IDK if I"m just used to the Blackcomb or if I ride aggressively forward and bent over (I feel like I'm bent 45 degrees), but I felt like I was riding a beach cruzer... maybe I'm exaggerating a little bit. I am glad there is a lot of room for adjustment... I'll take out a few spacers the next chance I get. The bar bend does give a lot of room back and forth when turned more forward or backward. It seems like the design w the spacers and the bar bend will give a lot of adjustment for short and tall riders. The bars are much wider than I"m used to. I may cut a few inches off. I do this mainly because I'm used to my motocycle woods bike having skinny bars to fit threw trees. That spilled over into my bicycling. Not sure if thats proper, but it feels better to me.

The suspension was far better than I thought it would be. The fork is very smooth, but dont think it has any rebound dampening. Seems to pogo back out. It is smoother than the blackcomb fork even after I rebuilt it. It is smoother than my wifes RST on her high dollar bike (much more than anything I have ever owned at least). It is sturdy, its smooth, it does the job and keeps the tire on the ground. The rear shock surprised me most of all.... It is just a spring like all other walmart bikes and everyone here has mentioned, but it is so much smoother compared to the Blackcomb (or any other walmart bike I have sat on). That being said, I did rebuild the XR-Pro as soon as I got it, greasing all the pivots, and esp the main pivot. I did not do this w the Blackcomb. It is also a 29" bike compared to the 26" Blackcomb. It is bouncy yes, esp compared to the high dollar LBS bike I road, but not that much more, and certainly not anywhere near uncomfortable. It certainly beats riding my wife's hardtail. I had much much less bob compared to the Blackcomb esp when standing up and peddling hard up a hill. I will keep the stock shock until it breaks, or I get the "itch" to upgrade.

Shifting.... this was probably the biggest surprise. I'm so glad this has a replaceable RD hanger. That is a big point for me because I hate beating up my frame and weakening it even more when I straighten it. The RD was amazed to tune... I've only tuned 4 bikes.... my blackcomb I tuned a lot due to wrecking the frame and RD... but this took me 5 minutes. I've never taken less than 30 minutes to please my OCD. And it shifts so seamlessly. I am getting better at tuning, but the quality of the RD and the shifter are way above what I expected for a $200 bike... more than I expected for a much more expensive bike. The front defaileur (FD) was not as easy as the rear. It adjusted pretty quickly but still needs a little tweaking. I may need to do some more researching on the correct mounting height as I didn't quite understand what the guys here were saying about the height. I use the FD a lot, so it is very important to me that I get it perfect. My OCD is definitely winning out here.

The breaks were another surprise. After adjusting when I first got it (I didn't ride until every pivot and bearing was grease and every bolt checked), it has had great stopping power. It will not endo or do a front wheelie, but the one thing I was confident about on the trail was the stopping. The rear would lockup with a hard pull. I am confident after the new cables stretch out and they are adjusted a little more, they will be even better. I will be staying with the stock breaks. If I upgrade them at all, it will be down the road when they're worn out.

Tires may be dry rotted... it had been sitting a while. The rear slid around a good bit, but that may also be because of the riding position being way too far back due to the low seat and the high handle bars. I'll use them until they ware out and spend some money on something better.

The one think I have not done is true the rims... I did check every single spoke, and looked over the rim several times and made sure they were both straight. If they had not been, or IF I DIDN'T KNOW, I would have taken them a LBS to be trued.

Final thoughts...
The first ride was great. My first impressions blown out the water. Who would have thought a walmart bike would have this kind of quality. The usual price seems to be $350, which I believe to be well worth it. I picked it up for $200 from a local WM who had it sitting in the stock room covered in dust. That pretty much sealed the deal, along with 90 day return policy at walmart, and quality of support from Pacific Bikes you guys have been raving about. The frame feels great, the welds look great, the materials are solid, and the design of the bike looks to hold up under heavy conditions. It has bearings / washers on every pivot on the back triangle and even looks to have a sealed bearing on the rocker pivot (idk what to call that one). I am looking forward to having this bike for the next 10 years.

I'd recommend this bike to my friends to get them to ride with me. I'd recommend this bike to a more agressive rider like myself. I'd recommend this bike to a motorcycle woods rider for cross training (thats why I started mtb). I'd buy this for my wife or my father (who I ride with when I visit). That being said, you have to rebuild the bike BEFORE you ride it for the first time. Take your time, take apart every pivot and every bearing and grease them, check tightness on every bolt, tune the breaks, and tune the deraileurs. I am OCD when it comes to things that can cause me some serious hospital time, and it is important to get these things right the first time, not to mention destroying your recent purchase and being very disappointed.

I will try to keep you up-to-date as time progresses and I get more than 30 minutes on the bike.

Last thought, wear your dumb looking helmet and get over it. No amount of work on your bike is going to save your head if you go down.

-James
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Re: Walmart Mongoose XR-PRO 29

Postby Falkon45 » Sat May 23, 2015 7:18 am

The suntour on your bike is better than the RST on your wife's bike, just so you know. Lol.

But yeah, nothing but good things for the xr-pro. I'm hoping to score one off CL one day, but they never show up. It would basically get either the left over epicon rear shock, or the Manitou rear shock I have, and the fork and wheelset would swap between it and the stat. Lol.

I picked up a truvativ stylo 400mm seatpost for cheap on amazon. Light and taller than the stock one. I have one without a setback (Apparently, I need one with a setback for the stat) but I think they have them with it.
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