20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby Peatbog » Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:31 pm

I was thinking about using one of those old-time BMX "loaf" seats along with BMX handlebars, but then I stuck on the apehangers and now I am thinking they are staying. I just have to paint the seat post black and obtain longer cables.

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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby desertguns » Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:18 pm

Looks like a 1960s Stingray on steroids! 8-) Would love to see a stick shifter on it but probably not safe for kids.
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby BoomerBrian » Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:34 am

Very cool.


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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby Peatbog » Sat Mar 29, 2014 10:15 am

Thanks.

I thought I would try an old BMX loaf seat:

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I have a rear fender to put on yet, and then I think I am done.
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby Peatbog » Sun Mar 30, 2014 12:29 pm

How I adjusted the front brake caliper so it quit dragging on the brake rotor and making an annoying noise.

Here is the thing: this is how I adjusted the brakes. Is there a better way? Maybe, but this worked for me. It works for either the front or rear brake as they are the same. All you need is a 5mm hex wrench (Allen wrench).

First, spin the front wheel. If you hear a swuka, swuka, swuka noise as it spins around, the brake pad is doinking the slightly uneven brake rotor. The whole idea of adjusting the caliper is to get the brakes pads as close to the brake rotor as possible without hitting the rotor until you pull the brake lever.

Look at the brake pads clearance of your caliper by eyeballing it along the rotor:

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Notice the clearance on each side of the rotor. That clearance was not there when I purchased the bike. I had to make it that way. In this picture, the wheel side is to the left while the fork side is to the right. The brake pad to the left does not move when you pull the brake lever; the pad to the right does. Spin the wheel around while eyeballing the clearance. Does the pad ever hit the left pad? If so, you need to move that brake pad back a bit...okay, screw all that, let's move both brake pads back away from the rotor and start there. First, on the back side of the brake caliper (facing the wheel) there is an adjuster to move the inside brake pad in and out.

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Spin that sucker counter-clockwise a bit. Now loosen the screw that clamps the brake cable until the cable slides loose, allowing the brake arm to freely move:

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The brake arm will move downward which moves the brake pad away from the caliper. Now eyeball down the brake caliper again:

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You should have clearance on both sides of the brake rotor. Spin the wheel. The rotor should not contact either brake pad. If it does, you are screwed and should give your bike to me. Actually, you are not screwed. If the back pad is still rubbing, rotate the back screw further out until it isn't. If you can't turn it out far enough or if the front pad is rubbing, you need to move the entire caliper in or out until the brake pads do not hit. Do that with these bolts:

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There are two screws, one on top and one on the bottom. Once you loosen these two screws, you can move the entire caliper in or out toward the wheel. Site down the rotor until you have clearance on both sides of the rotor. Note that you should be careful to keep the caliper parallel with the rotor, meaning you should move both the top and bottom of the caliper evenly. This is easy to see by eyeballing the alignment with the caliper. But you probably don't have to do this anyway, so let us continue.

Once you have clearance on both sides of the caliper and neither pad is dragging on the rotor, turn the static pad (the one that does not move when pulling the brake lever) adjuster in (clockwise) until it hits the rotor:

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You can tell when it hits the rotor by looking down the rotor just like you have before. Spin the wheel and back off the pad until it no longer rubs on the rotor. Turn the adjuster in and out until the pad just barely misses the rotor. You want this to be as close as possibly without rubbing. Spin the wheel while doing this and you can tell exactly how far in you can more it until it hits the rotor.

Now go up to the brake cable adjuster and spin it out a couple of turns--maybe even a bit farther than shown here:

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There is an adjuster down on the brake caliper too, but I like using this one. Now push up on the brake arm until you feel the brake pad hit the caliper. Pull the cable taut and tighten the cable clamp screw.

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Now, spin the wheel. The brake pad you just adjusted is probably doinking the rotor a bit. Spin in the brake cable adjuster until it quits hitting:

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If it never quits hitting, you just don't have enough adjustment. If you pulled the cable too tight to begin with, you may have to loosen the cable clamp screw and allow a little more clearance. Once everything is hunkydory, tighten the lock nut on the adjuster:

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Now your wheel should spin around without the brake pads hitting the rotor and making an annoying noise. If you didn't get it right, mess around with it. This is not rocket science, so you probably won't hurt anything.
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby desertguns » Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:57 pm

Good pics & overview. These are the crapiest rotors ever on any BBB so I wouldn't be surprised if many are not flat & rust if ya spit on 'em...

Here's what I do as long as the caliper is mounted to an adapter & not directly to the ISO mount. Don't know that it's "better" but is a little different.
1. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts.
2. Squeeze the brake lever so the pads just touch the rotor.
3. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
4. Adjust the cable take-up at the capture bolt so the outer caliper is close to rotor.
5. Back off the fixed (inner) pad a hair if required (usually it's not).

Pretty much what you did without relying on eyeballing as much. Rarely have any reason to use the cable adjustment this way either. I do this with Avid Speed Dial or $2 cheapo levers. Works every time. :)
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby Peatbog » Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:00 am

I tried that but the caliper never ended up aligned correctly. I don't know what the deal was, but it always ended up crooked and I had to straighten it by eyeballing it and boinking it around a little to make sure it was parallel with the rotor.
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby BigBobsBikes » Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:57 pm

That is great bike.

- Bob
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby Peatbog » Sat Apr 05, 2014 12:51 pm

Thanks.

I now have a fender...

Image

...and a piece of aluminum to make a fender mount:

Image
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Re: 20" Mongoose Boys' Massif fAT bIKE

Postby desertguns » Sat Apr 05, 2014 2:42 pm

Is the fender from minibike or did you make it as well? Must have a nice metal shop 8-)
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