How do i tell the good from the garbage

Issues about BMX type bikes
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How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby crash test dumby » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:58 pm

So recently my 12 year old started taking his BMX out in the neighborhood instead of the Traverse. I wondered why and he told me one of his friends had a ramp and told him he would wreck his MTB rims on it so he better use his BMX. I envisiones a little jump ramp where they maybe get a foot off the ground. Turns out what he's talking about is about a 4 foot high quarter pipe. Now when I have gone over there all I see them doing is ride up near the top and turn around and come back down. But the other day he had a little incident with his el cheapo Walmart bike (either Kent or Next, Bones probably knows Wipeout). The handlebars came loose as he tried to turn and he went off the side of the ramp and messed up his face pretty good. Even when this thing is kept on flat ground cement the bars tend to twist in the headtube, no matter how much I try to tighten it.

So this got me thinking if he's gonna keep doing this, especially if he ever gets the idea you can get some air off this thing, he would be better off on a better bike. Now obviously I don't want to spend much money on this. So I thought maybe I could find an older good quality race BMX on Craigslist pretty cheap. But it appears all the good names have at some time or another sold out their name to department store quality, Mongoose, Haro ane Dyno for sure. So my question is, is there an easy way to tell the "real" ones from the BBB ones. What do I look for, I haven't looked at BMXs except the two Walmart $50 ones I have at home since I was his age.
Bikes:
The Wife: Mobo Triton Pro
Chris (12): Windsor Cliff 4900
Alex (9): KHS Raptor 20" MTB
Me: Diamondback Overdrive 29er
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Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby bones72751 » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:09 am

The wipeout is a next. And as far as I knew Haro and dyno were still nice makers. There are a few things I've noticed that would be a good place to start looking. A newer thing is a micro drive gear system (very small front and rear rings, reduce weight and leave the same gearing), double wall wheels, 3 price cranks, threadless headset. Some less obvious are the thickness of the dropouts front and rear. I've noticed the better ones seem to be about .25" thick.

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2012 Nishiki Colorado- GF's bike
2007 GT aggressor- WIP
2005 KHS FXT Trail- WIP
Polaris Rush 29er- WIP

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Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby crash test dumby » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:25 am

Ok, that all makes sense but how can I tell if the wheels are double wall without taking tires off. And back when I was onto BMX there were certainly no threadless headsets. So the stuff I am looking for pricewise is unlikely to have that. I did figure 3 piece cranks would be a good sign though.
Bikes:
The Wife: Mobo Triton Pro
Chris (12): Windsor Cliff 4900
Alex (9): KHS Raptor 20" MTB
Me: Diamondback Overdrive 29er
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Posts: 200
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 6:23 pm
Location: Detroit Metro area, Michigan

Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby bones72751 » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:29 am

You really can't tell without pulling the tire. And Cl has quite a few haros, eastern, and other good brands used for 100 bucks or so. Sometimes even less. I guess since they're not as complicated as mtb's they're not as expensive.

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2010 Windsor Cliff 4500- viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2554
2012 Nishiki Colorado- GF's bike
2007 GT aggressor- WIP
2005 KHS FXT Trail- WIP
Polaris Rush 29er- WIP

Visit our store- http://www.cafepress.com/bigboxbikes
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Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby crash test dumby » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:34 am

Yeah, as long as you don't want to get into the free-stylers with the fancy brake systems so the fork/bars can spin all the way around and such, they are somewhat cheaper. Not always though, new ones at the LBS where we looked before we bought my sons Traverse startes around $300 and went up considerably up from there. Actually about the same range as the Schwinn and Giant MTBs they had in the store.
Bikes:
The Wife: Mobo Triton Pro
Chris (12): Windsor Cliff 4900
Alex (9): KHS Raptor 20" MTB
Me: Diamondback Overdrive 29er
crash test dumby
 
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 6:23 pm
Location: Detroit Metro area, Michigan

Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby bones72751 » Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:48 am

Well I was looking at the nicer bmx'ers on craigslist. It doesn't seem like they hold value as well as a mtb. And the rotor system for the brakes isn't really too complicated. They only consist of 2 or 3 parts and a couple special cables.

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2010 Windsor Cliff 4500- viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2554
2012 Nishiki Colorado- GF's bike
2007 GT aggressor- WIP
2005 KHS FXT Trail- WIP
Polaris Rush 29er- WIP

Visit our store- http://www.cafepress.com/bigboxbikes
bones72751
 
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Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby crash test dumby » Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:48 am

Sorry, didn't really mean to say the rotor systrm was too complicated, just that that type of bike seems to be more expensive on CL to me. I have found CL shopping to be a very mixed bag, just like MTBs I guess. Does look like you can get some true old school race bikes dirt cheep. But I would have to see if my son would ride them, the looks are much different then newer ones. Good quality newer ones from Diamondback, DK, Mongoose often have quite high asking prices around me. I am thinking this is a thing that would be great to garage sale for, if I had the time. People tand to think every MTB is worth a ton, but they look at BMXs, and oher kids bikes, as cheep toys. I bet if you search enough you can find GT pro Performers and other collectible old bikes for next to nothing. But you gotta have the time!
Bikes:
The Wife: Mobo Triton Pro
Chris (12): Windsor Cliff 4900
Alex (9): KHS Raptor 20" MTB
Me: Diamondback Overdrive 29er
crash test dumby
 
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 6:23 pm
Location: Detroit Metro area, Michigan

Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby Sycoholic » Wed Jul 25, 2012 6:59 am

I grew up riding bmx. I rode Mongoose before Mongoose started on Wal Mart shelves. (M1, California Pro, Solution Pro) It was common for stock bars to "crush" in the stem over time. That was always one of the first things you replaced. Typically with some Redline forklifters or some other type. California Pro was their flagship bmx bike and the bars still crushed. So, I'm not surprised the handlebars on your Next seem like they "crushed". Granted, it could be the stem, but I would suspect the bars first.

Now as far as quality goes and if he's going to be riding it hard, you can look for a higher end bike at Wal Mart. Watch components. Gyro or Oryg is what you need to make the bars spin. They're not that complicated once you actually get into it. Much better design than a rotor ever was. My son rode his Wal Mart Mongoose pretty hard. Tore up some stuff, but nothing crazy. Brake lever and associated cables.

I would want a cromoly frame and steel brake levers. I've used hi-ten steel, as my first race bike was an M1 and it performed just fine, winning me several trophies, so it's not really junk, just heavier. I would stay away from Next for anything other than casual riding simply because tube o/d is smaller and I've seen questionable quality of parts....such as a lot of plastic where there should be steel. The more expensive Mongoose bikes and even the DK's should suit your needs, depending on whether he needs to spin the bars or not, and if they're on a quarter pipe, then probably.
It only hurts when you stop.
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Re: How do i tell the good from the garbage

Postby smakula.kevin » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:41 am

walmart sells some good bikes not many I got the dk Cleveland after about a yerar the head set and back wheel will need to go. my frames held up. but if your still trying to get a bike. I can help I got a lot of parts I can get a good bike pretty cheep just let me know. my names kevin smakula you can add me on facebook and talk. I live in akron ohio so If you want you can add me and stuff . my profile pics me on my bike jumpin a stair set over a bike.
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