DK Cleveland

Issues about BMX type bikes
Forum rules
Be polite and courteous! Stay on topic!

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby boneskid1 » Mon Dec 19, 2011 2:34 pm

i cant explain what they look like very easily i would have to show you and i cant find any pics online
the best way to find out though is to take one of the wheels off doesn't matter which and look on the axle
for a nut or 2 they should be equivalent on both sides of the hub. if you see this start unscrewing the nut on one
side (it might unscrew on both sides) unscrew it a fair distance but don't take the nut off the wheel once you do this you will see
one of two things either little ball bearings in cage with some grease or a cartridge type bearing. the first is unsealed the second is sealed

this is the basic principle but on mtb hub read this and you should get the idea cartridge is what sealed bearings are the other ones are unsealed
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... adjustment

if you don't feel entirely safe doing this PLEASE DON'T TAKE IT APART i will e-mail DK and go to wal-mart and look
i don't want you to mess up your bike for my questions
also what e-mail are you using to contact dk i cannot find it on their website
The bikes of mine:
2003 Haro Mirra Flair, paid 15 dollars for it!!!!!!!!!!
Early-2000s Roadmaster mt. Fury w/ss and rigid 26er
To be missed:
1999 Mongoose K.O. bmx
1992-1993 Mongoose Villian bmx
boneskid1
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 7:45 pm

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby Fast8 » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:14 pm

No worries about messing it up. I'll take a look when I get a fe minutes.

Sent from my SGH-I997 using Tapatalk
Fast8
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 9:15 am
Location: Centerton, AR

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby boneskid1 » Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:23 pm

here is what i got as a reply from dk
No problem, the BB is sealed and the rest are loose ball. Here is the spec on the bike.

DK CLEVELAND

TT: 20.25" C S: 13.5" H T: 74. 5˚ ST: 72.5˚



FRAME4130 Chromoly Main Tubes



FORK4130 Chromoly Steer Tube



HANDLEBAR100% 4130 Chromoly 2-pc



GRIPS DK Tsuka



STEM Alloy Front Load



HEADSET Threadless 1-1/8"



BRAKE L EVER2-Finger Alloy Brake Lever



BRAKE Alloy U-brake



CRANK3-pc Tubular Chromoly 175mm

PEDALS DK Plastic



BB Mid Sealed



GEARING25T / 9T



RIMS36H Alloy



SEAT DK Padded



TIRES Dirt - F: 2.25"; R: 2.10"



COLORS Matte Black / Green

unsealed hubs are not an entire deal breaker for me just yet though
The bikes of mine:
2003 Haro Mirra Flair, paid 15 dollars for it!!!!!!!!!!
Early-2000s Roadmaster mt. Fury w/ss and rigid 26er
To be missed:
1999 Mongoose K.O. bmx
1992-1993 Mongoose Villian bmx
boneskid1
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 7:45 pm

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby smakula.kevin » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:33 am

the dk clevelands amazing. I have one had it for a year this thing takes abuse the rear hubs ghetto seald( semi) I call it ghetto though. the wheels will need replaced after about a year of heavy rideing also I ride mine with a 28/9 the head set will need replaced after about a year other then that though its been an amazing bike. but my gear ratio might be a problem btu now mines mostly custom and I use my parts for other bikes like my brtohers still usein the same stem and frame though its great little problems just the wheels and head set after a while but that's normal. hope I helped any one
smakula.kevin
 
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:22 am

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby Noonar » Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:09 am

I want this bike
Noonar
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 3:43 pm

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby zippyzap » Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:46 am

These are on sale at Walmart.com for $159.97 with free shipping to home or store. I picked up one, with 5% off using a cashback credit card. Fantastic value for $160.

Bit on heavy side, but I do have a history of LBS BMX race bikes when I was younger, both 100% chromoly and aluminum models. My current other BMX bike is an MCS Magnum Pro Cruiser, which is aluminum (frame).

All bearings except BB (which I understand is sealed) feel really rough. Headset seems to be just some nylon rings?!?! I had a cone wrench for the front (I think 16mm) and I put some cheap white lithium grease in there. Spins 100x better! Pedals have super crappy bearings too, so I'm thinking of replacing them. I'm unable to disassemble the rear hub because I don't have the proper sized cone wrench. What size for rear, 19mm?

What size seat post? 26mm? It is too short! I hope to find a budget alloy model that is 400mm long with an integrated clamp, like this one. I just use it to ride around the neighborhood and nearby park, and would like to be able to pedal comfortably while seated on occasion.

I've had a minor issue with the grips rotating on me.

Paint job is not consistent. Some places the paint had run/dripped, and consequently flaked off. This was most obvious around the rear dropouts and the forks where the legs and steerer met.

I've already started taking stickers off. Much better look, IMO.
zippyzap
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:02 am

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby blammo585 » Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:00 pm

Post some pics and keep us updated. There's not a lot that goes on in the BMX section here. If I had to guess on the seat post I'd say 25.4 but I could be wrong since I don't have one in front of me.
blammo585
 
Posts: 378
Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 2:25 pm

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby zippyzap » Sun Aug 17, 2014 9:48 am

zippyzap wrote:I'm unable to disassemble the rear hub because I don't have the proper sized cone wrench. What size for rear, 19mm?


Verified 19mm. I bought a Park 19" cone wrench off eBay for $8.06 shipped, and it seems a perfect fit. Haven't worked on it yet, just stuck it on to see.

blammo585 wrote:If I had to guess on the seat post I'd say 25.4 but I could be wrong since I don't have one in front of me.


I think you're right. I used my calipers and it was around that measurement, which is also 1" and seems a common BMX size. I'm conflicted... do I buy some cheaper seatpost, or go for a fancy one? The cheaper option... can get Redline 16"x1" chromo post for $16 or so. Alternately pay $25-40 for an aluminum 400mm with integrated clamp. The seat rail clamp that comes with the bike is steel and seems pretty heavy.
zippyzap
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:02 am

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby blammo585 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:07 am

zippyzap wrote:
zippyzap wrote:I'm unable to disassemble the rear hub because I don't have the proper sized cone wrench. What size for rear, 19mm?


Verified 19mm. I bought a Park 19" cone wrench off eBay for $8.06 shipped, and it seems a perfect fit. Haven't worked on it yet, just stuck it on to see.

blammo585 wrote:If I had to guess on the seat post I'd say 25.4 but I could be wrong since I don't have one in front of me.


I think you're right. I used my calipers and it was around that measurement, which is also 1" and seems a common BMX size. I'm conflicted... do I buy some cheaper seatpost, or go for a fancy one? The cheaper option... can get Redline 16"x1" chromo post for $16 or so. Alternately pay $25-40 for an aluminum 400mm with integrated clamp. The seat rail clamp that comes with the bike is steel and seems pretty heavy.


I always use aluminum micro-adjust seat posts. You can get an aluminum seat post for probably around $15 on Amazon.
blammo585
 
Posts: 378
Joined: Fri May 11, 2012 2:25 pm

Re: DK Cleveland

Postby zippyzap » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:14 am

Took a pic after the stickerondectomy. Is that a word? It should be. :D

I think I counted a total of 15 stickers on this bike.
One on each wheel (2) to advertise for the wheel maker.
One on each side of the seat stays (2).
One on each side of the top tube that says Cleveland (2).
One on each fork leg by the dropouts (2).
One on the head tube (1).
One on the seat tube (1).
"Made in China" towards bottom of seat tube (1).
One on the top tube behind the metal DK badge to implore me to bike safely (1).
One on the handlebar cross bar (1).
The big zombie sticker on the bottom tube (1).
One on the bottom of the bottom bracket with DK's 800 number (1).

They mostly came off pretty easy, helped by the fact that they are plastic and not paper based, and had a lot of air bubbles trapped underneath them. One of the seat stay stickers left some residue. I left the bottom bracket sticker because it can't be seen, and for warranty reference.

cleveland.jpg
cleveland.jpg (153.94 KiB) Viewed 988 times


Seat tube is aluminum (I tested with a magnet). Still thinking on this one. Amazon has a 16" Redline chromo one for under $20 shipped but nothing else on this bike is chomed, and I don't know if this will be appreciably heavier than a 400mm aluminum one (which I can get in black) with an integrated seat clamp. The seat clamp on this is probably pretty heavy. However, the 400mm one will be a lot more expensive, because I wouldn't want to settle for a more typical 350mm length, plus the black color seems more rare.

I have now taken apart both hubs to grease them. Rear seemed to have more grease to begin with, but was so tight that it barely spun. The rear hub bearings seem to be just loose balls, while the front hub seem to be in a ring. The rear must have some kind of internal bearing or lock, because after getting both sides off, the axle was still attached.

Obviously I left off the rear pegs. Those things weigh like 20 pounds each! I kid... almost. Besides, I don't need them. Also left off the reflectors, except for the ones that the pedals have which were pre-attached. I still think the pedals are crap. Plastic body, and barely spins like the stock hubs. If the bearings break in after a while and start to spin a bit more freely, I'll probably just keep them (and remove reflectors). Also, headset doesn't seem that great, with a bit of flex that doesn't impart confidence. Brakes suck too, but that may be partly the fault of the painted rims. Tires seem to squeak when cornering/leaning. I'm running probably just over 40psi in both.

Not sure if I want to really spend more money on this, because part of the point was that it was only $160. I would want to swap out the seat post, seat (very rounded so it barely gives any support, like sitting on a tube) and pedals next. But if I spend that much money on it, I'd probably be better off just finding a used or on-sale/clearance bike that cost more, but is already pretty close to what I want (probably minus the long seat post).
zippyzap
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 8:02 am

PreviousNext

Return to BMX Bikes

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest